He had been seduced, transported, dazzled by the French Riviera sun. His first stay in Nice in the 1930s, made one of the greatest masters of modernity, Henri Matisse, settle and spend the rest of his days here.
On November 3, 1954, the poet Louis Aragon voiced his friend’s passing away as follows: “Henri Matisse is there no more… something that was an expression of this country, of its light, has just been veiled, gone out”.
All his paintings, whether landscapes or interiors, sea views or studio representations, are indeed bathed in this kind of light. As if with the curtains drawn aside, the sun is piercing through the window, caressing the plants, the people, even the still lifes. To Henri Matisse, the sun is the very symbol of life and joy. Not incidentally, one of his emblematic paintings is called ‘Le bonheur de vivre’ (The Joy of Life). It is mirrored by “The Dance”, a large canvas created in the central Nice workshop.
In 1938, the Master chose a spacious apartment in the Cimiez hilltops, in a sumptuous Palace favoured by Queen Victoria in the late 19th century. Matisse thus lived and worked at the “Régina”, just a few steps away from the Villa des Arènes that became “his” museum in 1963. This luxurious residence, typical of late 17th century Genoese architecture, boasts a colourful façade. Adorned with trompe-l’oeil and multiple windows, it is home to an impressive collection. Paintings, sculptures, cut-out gouaches, drawings, engravings, illustrated books, and much more than that. Some personal objects are introducing us into the intimate universe of this extraordinary artist, deeply committed to spreading happiness around him. According to Matisse, “There are flowers everywhere for those who wish to see them”. These flowers are countless in his creations. First and foremost is an immense, almost nine metres high, cut-out gouache “Flowers and Fruit”. Meticulously restored, it is part of the Matisse Museum collection. This fragile masterpiece dated by the Master’s last period is protected by a monumental display case.
Extended in 1993, the museum now has a more contemporary allure. Renovated and enlarged, its spacious halls are inviting us to explore permanent and temporary collections establishing a dialogue between Henri Matisse and certain contemporary artists. The master’s contribution to modern art is indeed omnipresent.
The Rosary Chapel in Vence, an artistic testament
There is yet another venue marking Matisse’s passage on the French Riviera. Exiled in the Vence hinterland, fleeing the World War II bombings, the artist got busy decorating the Rosary Chapel.
Built in 1949–1951 for the Dominican convent, its exterior is discreet, blending into the town’s landscape. A white and blue tiled roof and a 13-metre high wrought iron cross, bearing crescent moons and golden flames, are well noticeable however. They are also hiding some unsuspected treasures.
Once we get inside, a genuine grace invades us. The purity of the lines and colours create a singular emotion. The fruit of 4 years of ardent work seems so simple, so obvious … magic of sobriety and true mastery indeed. Everything here is in its place. It could be no other way. Yet each line is a product of a thorough reflection. “I have always tried to hide my efforts, I have always wished my works to have the lightness and gaiety of the spring, never letting suspect the work behind”. His wish is fully granted here.
Large, stained glass yellow, green and blue windows are flooding the whitewashed interior with light. Three large paintings (Saint Dominic, the Nativity and the Cross’ Path) masterfully illustrate the Master’s words: “Drawing puts a line around an idea”.
Considered his artistic and spiritual testament, this chapel demonstrates the master’s line reflecting a quest for the ultimate. Rigour and power of drawing, bright and deep colours, composition aiming for the essential, even divine. Sacred art has truly acquired a new dimension here.
Musée Matisse
164, Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, Nice
Tél : +33(0)4 9381 0808
Chapelle du Rosaire
466, Avenue Henri Matisse, Vence
Tel. +33(0)4 9358 0326
