Alba is celebrating the international white truffle fair
Every autumn, Piedmont is changing its colours. With the trees turning red, an official start is given to the party. It all opens with the chestnut fair in Cuneo, in the very heart of this fabulous region. The high mountain pass, Col de la Lombarde, on the road from France to Italy, is hiding the highest sanctuary in Europe. “Santuario di Sant’Anna” is nestled in the town of Vinadio at an altitude of 2,035 metres.
Another undisputed local treasure is the white truffle of Alba, prized by the greatest chefs. It has brought international fame to this scenic town about an hour’s drive from Cuneo. The unique mushroom, with its exceptional aroma due to its wild nature, is one of the most precious commodities. No cultivation of it is possible. According to deputy mayor of Alba, Roberto Cavallo, the white truffle is “spontaneous”. Hiding deep in the woods under poplars, hazelnuts, willows and lime trees, it can only be unearthed by highly trained dogs. The truffle fair is also very strict in its rules. Every contestant has to have his produce evaluated by a jury.
Each truffle is placed in a small bag for total traceability. A sort of guarantee of authenticity and quality. The sale of smaller truffles (under ten grams) is now prohibited as their aroma may be quite mediocre. Last year, the price reached peaks due to the mushroom’s rarity. Some 730 euros were thus paid per 100 grams. In the highest season, however, the minimum price is around 300 euros.
This year, the international and unique white truffle fair is open until December 8. This 94th edition is inviting us for nine weeks of celebrations. Attracting around 100,000 visitors from all over the world every weekend, it accounts for a total of 49 million euros. In the other years, the fair was starting much earlier in autumn. “In the light of climate change, we have changed the rules. With no truffles out in September, we had to postpone the opening date to October 1,” explains Roberto Cavallo.
Internationally known for its gastronomy, the town of Alba is also worth a visit for its colourful alleyways and bucolic landscapes. The Langhe hills capital is located in the very heart of a highly prized wine region, with the white truffle fair providing an opportunity to taste some premium-quality pairings.
The famous “Palio d’Alba” also provides plenty of entertainment, with its donkey race attracting a large and enthusiastic audience. This is a throwback to a past competition with the town of Asti and its horse races around the city walls. To mock their opponents, Alba opted for a donkey run…
The white gold of Alba in the spotlight at the Truffle Bistrot, in Monaco
This restaurant is discreetly nestled in the midst of the Condamine market, at the western entrance to the Principality. But it does enjoy its unconditional fans and regulars, always happy to savour the finest truffles. The highly prized and most expensive one is that of Alba, in Piedmont. One of a kind, this mushroom with its inimitable flavour retains a wild, indescribable fragrance. And the greatest chefs are literally dying for it…
Created in 2012 and recently renovated, the “Truffle Bistrot” is related to the prestigious San Maurizio estate. Located in the heart of the Langhe region, it is forging its identity thanks to the local products it invariably promotes. The white gold of Alba is obviously mentioned on its “Relais et Châteaux” business card.
The Truffle Bistrot is honouring the Piedmontese cuisine. In particular, tajarin. Rich in eggs, this thin and long pasta resembling spaghetti is naturally cooked with truffle. The restaurant’s meat dishes, cooked or served as a tartare, are also enhanced with seasonal truffles.
White in autumn, the mushroom goes black in winter with the first snow marking the end of the precious Alba truffle.
Led by the two chefs Mirko and Luciano, the 100 % Italian kitchen team never ceases to surprise fine gourmets with the quality of its products and its know-how. In the best Piedmontese tradition, it is honouring seasonal flavours. As to the manager, Niccolo Sironi, he always makes sure that his customers feel comfortable in this relaxed and friendly place. A bit like home.
Open every day for lunch and dinner, except Sunday and Monday evening.
Truffle Bistrot. San Maurizio 1619
Marche de la Condamine, Place d’Armes, Monaco
+377 9777 1919
Tasty and healthy bistro cuisine in Terrasses d’Eze
Handpicked products, from short, healthy and tasty local regional circuits. This is the visiting card of chef Gianluca Calista at the stoves of “Le Tillac” in Terrasses d’Eze. Clinging to the cliff, the restaurant is offering a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean, just a stone’s throw from the scenic eagle’s nest of Eze.
Nestled in the heart of an idyllic landscape, “Le Tillac” is treating us to Mediterranean bistro cuisine using all the richness of regional and seasonal products. And quite naturally, in these autumn days, truffles are regularly invited to his table. Black truffle sprinkled pasta, risotto or mashed potatoes are on the menu. The white truffle from Abruzzo, east of Rome and less known than Alba, but just as precious and wild, is also there. It is used in a butternut squash pie, the restaurant’s signature dish of the season.
To Gianluca Calista, the taste is uppermost. “My daily work consists of finding the best local products. We work with the regional producers. The small vegetables come from a vegetable garden in Gorbio, on the heights of Menton, and the tomatoes —from Drap, in the Nice hinterland. I compose my menus based on what the market has to offer”.
As for the aromatic herbs, they grow in a garden at the local hotel, generously highlighting his little dishes varying from season to season.
Simple recipes rediscovering the flavours of yesteryear are magnified by the Chef’s know-how. An experienced traveller, Gianluca is also keeping fresh in his mind all the family cooking tips: that of his Italian origins which, back in his childhood, had marked this lover of tasty flavours and authenticity.
Open every day for lunch and dinner.
Le Tillac. Les Terrasses d’Eze
1138, Route de la Turbie, Eze
Tel. +33(0)4 9329 8068
Truffles at their best at the “Millésime” in Nice
There is no joking with the king of the forest mushrooms here. The chef, Aurélien Nourry, is a purist. No vaguely flavoured truffle oil or dubious blends. Truffles truly reign on your plate. Whether it’s topping a slow-cooked egg served in a real bird’s nest, embellishing a gourmet-coveted risotto or spicing a blue lobster from Brittany.
“There are truffles and truffles. We use the black truffle from Aups or Burgundy or its little sister, the white truffle of Alba, the borchii, with its incredible aroma. We make our own blends. Our truffle caviar comes from slow-cooked sous vide mushrooms, mixed in a fine Bellet olive oil, from Nice hillside. And very importantly, all our products come from small local producers.”
Quite a rare thing for a gourmet restaurant, the chef is treating us to deer meat during the autumn season. A game that is a great match for a truffled pumpkin confit, perfectly paired with some deep reds. Speaking about the wine list, it features an exceptional vintage Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château Rayas, 2011. The connaisseurs among us will be delighted. To round off the feast, choose a truffled creamy chocolate or a truffled brie de Meaux. This themed homemade ice cream will bring a smooth and fresh touch to your meal.
Hidden in a small street, in Nice port, the restaurant is a favourite with incognito celebrities. At nightfall, its candles add an even more romantic vibe to this intimate place. A sort of cocoon, perfect for an evening with your significant other or just a pure gastronomic communion in a cozy and elegant atmosphere. Let’s bet that a Michelin star won’t take long to come.
Open at noon Tuesday, Thursday and Friday and every evening from Tuesday to Saturday.
Le Millésime
17, Rue Smolett, Nice
Tel +334 9356 0013
